My 2nd Annual Kirkland Signature Wine Review
My team tasted 13 of Costco's private label wines. Here are the good, the average, the ugly.
Welcome back. I’ve been uncommonly absent from Substack for the last three weeks. I’ve produced two big events and watched a lot of World Cup matches since I wrote you last. The events were amazing. The bring a bottle dinner at Umbel Roots was delicious and very special. Looking to do a similar dinner in Indian summer.
And the fundraiser for Field Team 6 (Register Democrats - Save The World!) at Folklore in Downtown Napa was a great success. 26K raised! Fundraising of course is never over - chip in to support Field Team 6’s work here.
Here’s what’s coming up:
“Wine Wednesdays” - Best Under $25 Wines of the World
by Dan Dawson (me!) at the Hospitality Training Center, Napa Valley College
I’m showcasing wines from iconic regions, made by family-owned wineries, from organic vineyards.
July 15: Europe
July 22: Southern Hemisphere
July 29: North America
August 5: Blind Tasting/Is It $20 or $60?
Classes are from 6 to 7:30 PM
Details and buy tickets ($50/class or $180 for all 4 classes)
ROAD TRIP to Jericho Canyon Winery in Calistoga
Sunday, July 19, 11 AM
Tour and tasting of Jericho Canyon wines with owner Dale Bleecher.
Al fresco lunched prepared by Dan Dawson (that’s me again).
EDC Club Members: $25. (Non-members $60).
Details and sign up.
Fourth Fridays at Folklore
Friday, July 24, 5:15 PM.
Chip in $25. I select wines from the Folklore wine list (1/3rd off during Happy Hour), owner Steve Ventrello and I teach you about the wines.
Info and sign up.
Eat Drink Cook Wine Tasting Showcase #3
Thursday, July 30, 6 to 8 PM at Napa Yacht Club.
Featuring Massican, Biale, Priest Ranch and Bouchaine.
Fundraiser for Napa Yacht Club Maritime Scholarship Program.
$30/person - EDC Members $20. Details and RSVP.
******* A paid Substack subscription = EDC Social Club Membership *******
2nd annual Kirkland Signature Wine Review
My first review of Kirkland Signature Wines, the proprietary brand of Costco, happened in March last year when Napa’s Costco was just five months old. 16 months have passed since those reviews and, countless comments & questions later, I figure it’s time to do it again. Costco has settled into our Napa culture (who doesn’t shop there?), vintages have changed, and, since specific Kirkland Signature wines come and go over the year, half the wines reviewed today are different than last time.
My tasting format is the same as last year. Assembled are a collection of friends not in the wine business. They like wine, they drink wine, they make their living not directly related to wine. One glass per person, a wine is poured around the table, tasters blurt out comments, I scribble them down alongside my own notes. Appetizers and 13 bottles of Kirkland Signature wine fill the table. It’s all informal with just enough control to get what I need. I’ve made pesto pasta, aged Gouda sourdough and a green salad for afterwards.
13 Wines. The Good, The Average and The Ugly
I’ve put the 13 wines into three categories. “The Good” are recommended regardless, but especially, for the price. “The Average” is self-explanatory, although an argument could be made to move most of them up to The Good section. This is wine after all - a very subjective product. The Ugly wines were vastly disliked by all. Hats off to the Kirkland Signature brand for placing four of thirteen wines in The Good category. No easy feat at such reasonable prices.
The Good
Kirkland Signature Pinot Grigio, Friuli Grave 2025 ($5.69). This is the 2nd year in a row this wine has made The Good list. After last year’s review, long-time Napa Valley winemaker Michael Weiss told me how the Kirkland Signature Pinot Grigio is his go-to white wine for everyday drinking. Comments: “I want to keep tasting it” and “this is a perfect poolside sipper.” Fresh and fruity tasting, dry, front-loaded with melon and citrus flavors, short finish – to be expected for $5.69…short finish is better than an unpleasant one.
Kirkland Signature Champagne, Brut ($24.99). Recommending the Champagne this year makes me very happy because A) last year’s bottling was Ugly, and B) how great is it to find a tasty $25 Champagne?
Sometimes the Kirkland Signature wines have a winery or a winemaker name on the back label, and this is the case for the Champagne. Manuel Jannison, also producer of Jannison & Fils, has made the Champagne for Costco for 20 years. Comments included “dangerously drinkable,” and “don’t have to add orange juice to make it good.” I like that one. Made from the 3 Champagne grapes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. Guessing it falls near the top end of Brut sweetness as many found it a little sweet, which is not a criticism: the sweetness elevates the fruity flavors.
Kirkland Signature Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2023 ($10.99) This light, fruit-forward Oregon Pinot Noir was called “a good chillable red,” and “a wine I’ll stick in the fridge in the summer.” Back-handed compliments for sure. Cranberry, red plum, oak and rhubarb flavors, smooth, lightness, touch of lavender in there. I can see light red wine drinkers buying this very happily by the case.
Kirkland Signature Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2023 ($14.99) Yes folks, a $15 Napa Valley Cabernet, and it’s pretty darn good. Comments: “Very aromatic,” “tasted like Napa Cab,” “very aromatic” and “I can drink this without food.” Restaurants wish they could pour a Napa Valley Cab this good by the glass (and charge $18 for it).
The Average (in order of my personal preference)
Kirkland Signature Chianti Classico, Riserva 2022 ($9.59). The group knocked the Chianti Classico for lacking flavor and being too tart. I can see that, but I also like its understated-ness in classic Italian dinner-companion red style. Raspberry, lemon/orange and white pepper flavors with a little bitter tea finish. Nothing wrong with a generous glass to wash down the pizza or pasta. I would have put in The Good but for the strong group feelings. You decide for yourself.
Kirkland Signature Pauillac 2023 ($19.99). A Cabernet Sauvignon-based red blend from the famous region in Bordeaux was a pleasant surprise to find – this is the first Pauillac by Kirkland Signature since 2015. Comments included, “a good $20 Cab” and “get the ribeyes for this” and “a BBQ party wine.” It tastes like Bordeaux, to its credit, with currants, mushrooms and tannins coating the gums. This wine certainly has its place.
Kirkland Signature Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County 2023 ($9.99). This won the group award for “best party bottle red wine.” Medium bodied, soft tannins, light oak. Typical Alexander Valley Cab green pepper and herb flavors are there which some liked, some didn’t. I think they’re nice. This is a simple, honest, straightforward wine.
Kirkland Signature Rioja, Reserva “JME Selección” 2021 ($7.99) This was panned by the group. “Funky smell, astringent, flat,” and “no fruit.” Now, Rioja Reservas often have (some say should have) an “acquired taste” funk. I could see the rating turned on its head with another group of tasters. That’s wine for you. Interestingly, this Rioja is better three days later. Less funk, more fruit, surprisingly pleasant now. It was an Ugly, now it’s an Average with a bullet.
Kirkland Signature Zinfandel “Old Vine” Sonoma County 2024 ($9.99) Nothing wrong with it, tastes like it should, soft tannins, easy-drinking and versatile. Comments were sparse for the Zinfandel as it didn’t stand out one way or the other which can be seen as good or bad.
Kirkland Signature Rosé, Côtes de Provence 2025 ($8.99) Provence, Southern France, the world capital for rosé wine. Doesn’t mean that all the rosés from here are good, and this one barely passes muster. The group liked the pale orange/salmon flesh color and fruity nose. The taste fell flat however, leading to comments like, “a squeeze of lemon will pick it up” and “maybe a splash of Sprite and on the rocks will help.” I put it into The Average group because there are no off-putting flavors.
The Ugly
Kirkland Signature Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Cuvée du Terroir des Papes” 2024 ($21.49) Sad to put a wine from what used to be my favorite wine region in the ugly list. This Southern French, Grenache-based red blend is soft with expected jammy berry and cherry flavors and spice, but an overarching sweaty armpit and day-old chopped bell peppers flavor continues into the 10 second finish.
Kirkland Signature Malbec, Mendoza 2024 ($6.99) This is a very popular wine and I don’t know why. Car exhaust and over oaky nose, taste of prunes, sharp. The short finish is a blessing.
Kirkland Signature Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley 2024 ($19.99) Part of the Kirkland “Signature Series” line, suggesting higher quality, more special. The Stags Leap District designation is premium, but the wine is not. Hollow, funky, not much redeeming going on. Buy the Napa Valley Cabernet instead.
And there you have it. Not tasted for this piece but worth giving a try are the Kirkland Signature Asolo Prosecco Superiore, Moscato d’Asti and Chablis. The first two I’ve had in the past and liked, the Chablis I’ve heard good things about.
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Thanks for the Kirkland reviews, Dan. I may be an atypical shopper as I have not picked up any Kirkland labels during my occasional visits, but as summer warms up, I may have to try the pinot grigio at an upcoming block party.